Dominican Republic - Island of the Happy

2013

One of the white dream beaches of the Dominican Republic
Photo: Iakov Kalinin - iStockphoto.com

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Caribbean
Best travel time
Arrive well
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Caribbean

Circular hips, noble restored squares, joyful people: In the capital Santo Domingo you can feel the soul of the Caribbean.

Beads of sweat trickle down my neck, gather in the cleavage and leave dark spots on my shirt. The humidity is at felt 100 percent. Always. Daytime, at night. I am sipping my iced Piña colada.

In front of me, a salsa singer with red-painted lips and skintight skirt lazily circles her pelvis. While most of the tourists are resting motionless on one of the white dream beaches of the Dominican Republic, the thirsty locals are thirsty for exercise.

Always, no matter where. At the vegetable market, in the car wash - or in the evenings in the romantically lit Plaza de España in the heart of the Zona Colonial of Santo Domingo. The capital is dancing. Merengue, salsa.

"He who does not dance is a bad lover." With these words, Carlos Batista pulls me onto the dance floor and whirls me around. Loud drums accompany the singer. Just in front of the Alcázar de Colón, a colonial fortress adorning two rows of arcades. I am moved by the cheerfulness of these people. And plunge into her life of contagious Caribbean serenity.

Tired and armed with a churro, the greasy-baked yeast ring, I stroll the next morning with guide Carlos through the streets of his hometown.

Back in time, when Spanish noblemen populated the streets. Past beautifully restored palaces and manor houses, flower-decked courtyards. Street vendor Luisa sorts the coconuts on her stand, skillfully she beats up the fruits. The sun is burning on my forehead. I try the fresh, sweetish juice of the tropical nut. Delicious!

We are on America's oldest paved street, Calle Las Damas. The ladies of the first colonial city of America strolled here in the 16th century.

A few corners further on, an earthy cigar smell blows around my nose. At the cozy Parque Colón, right in front of the cathedral, we meet Juan Santana. The Tabaquero smiles shyly. On an old machine he rolls pressed, dark brown tobacco leaves. For 22 years now, the charming Juan has been making one of the country's biggest export hits, finest Cohiba cigars. "Since I work in the city, my family is doing much better, " says the former farmer.

Juan was lucky. Unemployment is high in the country, Carlos tells me later. Many earn their money on the street, for example by cleaning their shoes. "Nevertheless, Dominicans are the happier people, " says emigrant Georg full of conviction.

Georg Rieck came here in the nineties. The funny Cologne built a presidential palace in the Calle Duarte to the hotel. A lot of work. "But nobody looks grumpy in the morning like at home in the tram." I understand why he hardly misses the cathedral city.

But one thing "La Capital" has in common with Cologne: people like to dance like the carnival jeckls. Merengue time is back in the evening. Loud Caribbean rhythms envelop me. Under palm roofs we eat the national dish, spicy red beans, rice and beef. The "Bandera Dominicana" is a must in the culinary restaurant "El Conuco" in Gazcue district.

Then it's off to the northeast coast: finally Caribbean feeling, as I know from the prospectus. On the peninsula Samaná powdery, white beaches, forests of coconut palms, turquoise sea.

In the fishing village of Las Terrenas the time has stood still: small, brightly colored guesthouses, nice boutiques, everything a bit crazy, creative and yet authentic. At the lonely Playa Rincón I eat fresh grilled lobster. A dream! And in the evening, I'm drawn back to the wild merengue parties, this time in a car wash. Caribbean joie de vivre - as I love it.

The Dominican Republic is located on the eastern half of the Caribbean island of Hispaniola between the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea.

Best travel time

November to April - then it is pleasantly warm and dry.

Arrive well

Direct flights to the capital Santo Domingo offers z. B. Condor from 760 euros. There are great package tours at TUI: seven days in the four and a half star hotel on Samaná for 1, 417 euros, all-inclusive.