Here you can download the entire manual.
You need this:
- Regia hand-dye effect (70% new wool superwash, 25% polyamide, 5% polyacrylic, length approx.
- 420 m / 100 g)
- 100 g in Amethyst Fb 06553 Regia Extra Twist Merino (75% merino wool, 25% polyamide, length approx. 210 m / 50 g)
- 50 g in purple, stocking waste in white, black and red, print 09354, double pointed needles 2-3
Notes on the instructions:
Stitching: With needles No. 2-3 smooth right 30 M and 42 R / Rd = 10 x 10 cm
Smooth right: In Hinr right, in Rückr left str, in rounds each Rd right str
And this is how it's done:
HEAD:
Start with needles 2-3 in Extra Twist Merino. Split 8 sts and smooth on the right st. For the increases always 1 st crossed right out of the cross thread. Between the increase round one rd is always turned to the right.
Per needle:
1st round: and all odd rounds
2nd round: 1 st, 1 st at once, 1 st at = 3 sts
4th round: 1 st, 1 st at once, 1 st at once, 1 st at once, 1 st in = 5 sts
ROUND 6: 1 st, 1 st at once, 3 sts, 1 st at once, 1 st at = 7 sts
ROUND 8: 1 st, 1 st in, 2 sts, 1 st in, 1 st in, 1 st at once, 2 sts in st, 1 st at once, 1 st in = 11 sts
ROUND 10: 1 st, * 1 st at once, 3 sts at right, from * 2 xs, finish with 1 st at once, 1 st at = 14 sts
ROUND 12: * 3 sts, 1 sts in, from * 3 xs, 3 sts = 19 sts
ROUND 14: 10 sts, 1 sts in, 9 sts = 20 sts per nd = 80 sts total.
Slightly knit another 30 rounds right and lock the sts
BODY:
The body is knit in rounds as a tube, for the constrictions is pulled through the later filling with cotton in every 26th Rd a thread and tied a segment. With the double pointed needles and Regia hand-dye effect 80 sts up to the beginning of the top 7 x 26 Rd (= 182 Rd) and another 20 Rd str. Now start with the decreases. For the declines always 2 pieces are knitted together. Distributed equally in the following R, Nd the 6th and 7th M, the 12th and 13th M and the 18th and 19th M together. Remove 3 sts in every 4th row following R, then in every other row for 2 sts until 8 sts remain, draw with double thread and suture.
WORKING OUT:
Fill the body with cotton wool and pull in a thread 7 times in every 26th round. Stuff out the head and sew on. Stuff out the feet and sew on.
Feeler: For each feeler with needlestick, spread in Amethyst 12 sts and 18 rounds right sts. Work 2 sts in garter st on each row, work stocking st in stockinette st, stocking st in stocking st at stocking st on each round st on each round. Knit 2 sts each side until only 2 sts remain. Pull the M together with a double thread and sew. Fill with cotton wool and sew on the head as shown.
NOSE: with needlelame, divide 12 sts in amethyst and then knit 20 sts. With a little stuffing stuffed stuffing and aufsteppen on the middle of the head round.
EYES: Cast on 8 sts with Nd 2-3 in white and work 16 rows in stocking st. The eyes are oval on the head. Embroider eye points in black with elastic stitches. Embroider mouth in stich stitch in red as shown.
4 little socks are knitted from purple for the feet. Distribute 32 sts evenly on 4 needles of needles = 8 sts per nd. The round change is in the back center, ie between the 4th and 1st needle. This location is automatically indicated by the starting thread. Now for the shaft 18 Rd smooth right str. Start with the heel. Cut over the 16 sts of the 1st and 4th sts for the heel wall 14 sts. Then start with the three-piece coping and divide the sts as follows: 5 sts each for the outside parts, 6 sts for the middle heel piece (= coping stitch). In the following row the 5 sts of the outer part and until the last st of the middle third str. * Re-coat the last st with the following sts of the other outer part. For this, lift off the last cap stitch, then pull the next st of the outer piece and pull the off-hook cop-stitch over it and turn it over.
In the 2nd R lift off the 1st coping stitch on the left (thread in front of the M) and knit all sts left until the last dart stitch. Join this last M with the following M of the outer part on the left and turn it over. Lift off the 1st coping stitch li (thread behind the M) and knit all the dart stitches down to the last stitch. These decreases from * wdh until all M of the outer parts used up and only the cap-M are left.
Continue again in rounds over all M re str. Straighten over the cap-M, evenly distributing it to 2 Nd (4th and 1st Nd), then 1 st from each edge st of the heel edge (1 st from 2 heel rows) 1 st and 1 st the transverse thread between the 1st and 2nd Nd 1 M re entangled. Now the sts of the 2nd and 3rd hands (foot top) are knitted. Then knit from the cross thread between the 3rd and 4th hands, 1 st crossed and from each edge st 1 st, then work the remaining sts On the 1st and 4th needle there are now more M than on the 2nd and 3rd nd, the number of cap-m. These extra M will be removed again for the gusset. For this, in each of the following rounds on the 1st round the second and third last rows together, the last round, at the 4th needle the 1st round, the 2nd and 3rd rows covered. Straighten over 32 sts to a right foot length of approx. 7 cm, then work the band lace:
For the top of the band at the 1st and 3rd round to 3 sts before the end of the st, then work 2 sts together and the last st, at the 2nd and 4th sts the 1st st and the sts both following m overcoated These decreases in every 2nd round until there are 8 more left. Firmly tighten these M with double thread.
