Easter can come: These oven mitts not only protect you perfectly when baking, they also manage to bring Easter to you now. Quick and easy self-made with this guide.
Photo: MEZ GmbH
Size: about 13 inches wide, about 19 inches high
This is what you need for the egg potholders:
Schachenmayr Catania Grande, 50 g ball
- Color 03208 (lilac), 1 ball
- Color 03213 (dahlia), 1 ball
- Color 03385 (mint), 1 ball
- Color 03106 (white), 1 ball
Check the bands and use only balls of the same color lot. The material consumption can vary from person to person.
- from Milward a crochet hook 4.5 mm
- a woolen needle for sewing the threads
GAUGE
Fixed stitches in rounds:
16 M and 20 Rd = 10 cm x 10 cm.
If the mesh size is different, use thicker or thinner needles.
BASIC TECHNIQUES
Basic Pattern: Crochet M in Spiral Rd, crocheting steadily M, ie there is no air m, replacing the 1st M at the beginning of the Rd.
NOTE: When crocheting in Spiral-Rd, it is advisable to put a thread in a contrasting color after each round.
With this method, the number of M can be controlled better. Remove the thread after the end of the round and reload at the beginning of the round.
Duplicate 1 st: Crochet 2 solid sts in the same puncture site.
1 Increase : Work on 4 sts each of pre-rounds as follows: Duplicate 1st st, in 2nd and 3rd st each 1 sts M, double sts 4 sts. 2 M increase per increase.
1 pique : 2 airm, 1 sl st in the first airm and work with the pikots 1 st on each side.
COLOR IMPACT
Color sequence A : 4 Rd in lilac, 2 Rd in white, 4 Rd in dahlia, 2 Rd in white, 4 Rd in mint = 16 Rd.
Color sequence B : 2 Rd in white, 2 Rd in lilac, 2 Rd in white, 2 Rd in mint, 2 Rd in white, 2 Rd in dahlia, 2 Rd in white, 2 Rd in lilac = 16 Rd.
Note on changing colors: already cut off the last M of a Rd with the new color.
ABBREVIATIONS
solid M = fixed mesh
hStb = half sticks
Warp = warp stitch (s)
Airm = air mesh (s)
M = mesh (s)
Rd = round (s)
And this is how it's done:
1 potholder consists of a lower and an upper part.
LOWER PART
Begin in lilac with a magic ring (or 2 to 3 air m, with a warp closed to the ring). Then crochet in the basic pattern in color sequence A.
1st round: After 1m of air, work 10 solid M's in the Magic Ring.
2nd round : double every st = 20 sts.
3rd round : 3 solid M, 1 increase, 6 solid M, 1 increase, 3 solid M = 24 M.
4th round : 4 solid M, 1 increase, 8 solid M, 1 increase, 4 solid M = 28 M.
5th round : 5 solid M, 1 increase, 10 solid M, 1 increase, 5 solid M = 32 M.
6th round : 6 solid M, 1 increase, 12 solid M, 1 increase, 6 solid M = 36 M.
7. Rd : 7 solid M, 1 increase, 14 solid M, 1 increase, 7 solid M = 40 M.
ROUND 8 : Crochet 1 solid M in each st from beg of round.
9th round : 8 solid M, 1 increase, 16 solid M, 1 increase, 8 solid M = 44 M.
10th - 15th round : Crochet 1 solid M in every st from beg of round.
16th round : 11 solid M, 4 hStb, 18 solid M, 4 hStb, 7 solid M, 1 Kettm in the 1st solid M.
When crocheting in Rd, the Rd transition automatically shifts to the right. By the 16th Rd this offset is somewhat compensated and the pages slightly increased.
The margins are now between the 2nd and 3rd hStb.
ROUND 17 : In white in the 3rd hst of the pre-round with 1 Kettm reconnect and crochet 1 solid M, then work in each M 1 fixed st. Close the round with 1 sl st in the 1st round sts.
18th round : Crochet 1 picot, 1 sl st in turns over 22 sts (= front side only). After the 11th needle work 1 sl st in the following solid sts (do not pass sts), cut the thread.
TOP PART
Begin in white with a magic ring (or 2 to 3 airm, with a warp closed to the ring). Then crochet in the basic pattern in color sequence B.
1st round: After 1 m of air, work 6 solid M's in the Magic Ring.
2nd round : double every st = 12 sts.
3rd round : 1 solid M, 1 increase, 2 solid M, 1 increase, 1 solid M = 16 M.
4th round : 2 solid M, 1 increase, 4 solid M, 1 increase, 2 solid M = 20 M.
5th round : 3 solid M, 1 increase, 6 solid M, 1 increase, 3 solid M = 24 M.
6th round : 4 solid M, 1 increase, 8 solid M, 1 increase, 4 solid M = 28 M.
ROUND 7 : Crochet 1 solid M in each st from beg of round.
8. Rd : 5 solid M, 1 increase, 10 solid M, 1 increase, 5 solid M = 32 M.
ROUND 9 : Crochet 1 solid M in each st from beg of round.
10th round: 6 solid M, 1 increase, 12 solid M, 1 increase, 6 solid M = 36 M.
ROUND 11 : Crochet 1 solid M in each st from beg of round.
12th round : 7 solid M, 1 increase, 14 solid M, 1 increase, 7 solid M = 40 M.
ROUND 13 : Crochet 1 solid M in each st from beg of round.
14th round : 8 solid M, 1 increase, 16 solid M, 1 increase, 8 solid M = 44 M.
RO15: Crochet 1 solid M in every st from beg of round.
16th and 17th Rd : Work in lilac as described in the lower part.
18th round : Start as the 18th R from the lower part, but after the last Kettm the Rd continue on the back and crochet 1 solid sts in the remaining 22 sts.
Crochet the second potholder as well.
COMPLETION
Put the lower and the upper part over the 22 fixed sts on the right side and sew the 22 fixed sts with overstitching stitches, only catching the outer stitches. For the hanger in dahlia strike 20 airm, cut the thread and pull through the last st. Pull the ends through the opening of the magic ring of the upper part and knot them on the inside. Sew all threads.
Here is the guide for you to download.
