Photo: iStock
- Which suit can the bridegroom wear?
- Tailcoat, tuxedo or cut this is the question
- Noble materials for wedding suits
- The perfect fit
- The matching accessories for the wedding suit
- The typical colors
- The purchase of the wedding suit
- Alternatives to buying
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Suit, tuxedo, cut or tails? As a groom it is not so easy to choose the right suit. What should be considered when buying?
Which suit can the groom wear?
Choosing the right wedding suit for the groom is almost as hard as choosing the wedding dress. Today there is a very large selection of wedding fashion for the groom and there is something for every taste. Some companies have specialized in suits for the groom. Before the groom goes on a search, it is important that the bridal fashion is discussed in advance with the bride.
Here are some tips and hints on what to look out for when choosing your wedding suit.
Tailcoat, tuxedo or cut - that's the question
Considering the fact that the styling of a bride is hard to beat, many think that the groom's outfit plays only a minor role. As a matter of fact, not so much attention is paid to the suit of the groom as to the wedding dress.
But even men are literally spoiled for choice when it comes to the dress code for the wedding. A suit is not the same as a suit. If "man" deals more closely with the different suit shapes and types, he will find that there are some significant differences here as well.
The smoking
Traditionally, the tuxedo is a typical evening suit that replaces the cut. For some time now it is no longer a bad thing to wear the elegant tuxedo on the day of the wedding reception. It is usually made in the colors black or dark blue.
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The shape of the tuxedo: The lapel of the jacket runs obliquely upwards from the middle of the stomach and can be covered with silk. As an alternative, the jacket also offers a shawl collar. The most striking thing about the tuxedo, however, is the pants, because it has neither a service nor pleats. Instead, the seams on the sides are covered with so-called Galons. Nowadays you can also wear tuxedos for a pleated trouser.
Styling tip: Since the tuxedo does not hang in the back of the knees or is too short, it is ideal for a little more groomed grooms. However, since the pants of the tuxedo has no pleats that looks stretch, small men should rather wear a pleated trousers for a tuxedo.
The Stresemann
The original suit for politicians has now become a noble wedding suit, which is traditionally worn at a civil wedding. Usually, the suit is black and anthracite, with the pants striped black and gray.
The shape of the Stresemann: The pants, which is worn to Stresemann, has no service charge, but a pleat. The original jacket of Stresemann reaches in the back to the knees. The front leg section is, unlike the cut, partially covered. Nowadays, there are mostly mid-length jackets, but still have the typical rounded corners.
Styling tip: Since today's Stresemann has a relatively simple cut, it can be worn by most men. He is particularly good to small men, because the Stresemann nowadays has a medium-length jacket.
The cut
The Cutaway, short Cut, is a particularly noble suit, which is considered a typical morning suit. Therefore, he should traditionally not be worn after 18.00 clock. The cut is usually carried in the colors dark to light gray, silver gray and with light or dark stripes.
The shape of the cut: The jacket is closed with just one button, which is at belly height. From there, the lapel runs obliquely upward, whereas the lower part of the jacket runs in a flowing line to the rear and ends with a rounded back part extending to the back of the knees. This leaves the front leg part free. The trousers of the cut are worn without surcharge. An elegant vest in gray completes the festive suit.
Styling tip: The cut is above all athletic and tall men. Your advantageous figure is excellently underlined by the long jacket. Small and petite men as well as men with a larger belly circumference should rather keep their hands off a cut.
The tailcoat
The noblest of all suits is the tailcoat. Traditionally, it is like the tuxedo only in the evening, but now also chosen for the church wedding. The practical thing about the elegant jacket is that you can also wear it open without breaking etiquette. You do not have to worry about the color choice, because a tuxedo is always black.
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The shape of the tailcoat : In the front part of the tailcoat is cut at the level of the waist. The back of the jacket usually ends in the well-known dovetails, which reach down to the knees. The pants of the tailcoat has no service, but Galons at the side seams.
Styling tip: Since the jacket of the tailcoat in the back is very long, small men should rather opt for a different suit type. Tall and slender men, however, a tailcoat is excellent. Even a little more corpulent men can opt for a tuxedo, because the jacket is usually worn open.
Noble materials for wedding suits
Cotton: very skin-friendly, pleasant in summer, high wearing comfort, but wrinkles quickly
Linen: very comfortable in high temperatures, ideal for a wedding on the beach, but looks very messy
Wool blend: ideal for a winter wedding, sweat is bound and neutralized, coarser wools can cause skin irritation
Silk: very noble and pleasant in the summer, also particularly skin-friendly, but one sees sweat stains quickly
Polyester: highest resistance to tearing and scuffing under the fibers, hardly wrinkles, but absorbs no moisture, so that the skin can not breathe well
Viscose: cheap, but easily deformable and low durability
The perfect fit
Straight shoulders and flattering T-shape: Much can be changed in a suit by the tailor, but the shoulder must be right away. A straight line with some play is ideal, the seam is slightly above the shoulder. For a perfect fit with a masculine T-shape, sitting at the waist is also crucial. Slightly waisted looks particularly casual. Especially with the wedding suit with a closed jacket, it is important that no too tight shape is chosen.
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The perfect sleeve length: The sleeves should also provide freedom of movement and extend to the base of the thumb. From the shirt looks a good inch out, so that chic cufflinks can certainly be set in scene. For taller men, there are intermediate size jackets, while shorter lengths can also be adjusted. Here, of course, buttons or the like should be offset accordingly, so that the change at the end is no longer noticeable.
Snug fit on the lapel: Elegant pocket squares or small bouquets highlight the lapel of the suit. In the neck it should be with the collar of the shirt and on the front should be a tension line. When fitting and adjusting it is still to be considered, whether it is a three-piece suit with vest or a special cut. The best way to measure or shorten the ensemble is to choose the right shirt and matching accessories and shoes.
Sitting test for the pants: Whether registry office, church or subsequent celebration, the wedding suit should look perfect standing and sitting. So the length of the pants is crucial, which should throw a small wrinkle on the shoe.
The matching accessories for the wedding suit
The right shoes, a watch, the tie. Here you can invest in good pieces, which are attracted again. Many choose depending on the nature of the wedding but also the casual way and show off athletic with sneakers or an open collar. It depends on the style and the outfit of the bride.
Many men are looking for a way to pick up the color the bride has chosen for her wedding. Colored socks are now widely used. But you should not overdo it and distract from the rest. Individualized cufflinks can also be popular. They bring their own style and look elegant. Even with ties and flies there is plenty of scope: With flies you can be brave in the color selection, but too colorful ties on the other hand act quickly silly. Even if today no one wears a vest for a business suit - for a wedding, gentlemen can also wear a three-piece suit. A vest looks particularly modern and elegant if it is made of the same material as the suit.
Photo: iStock
The typical colors
Of course, black leads the way, and more and more blue is currently preferred. Anthracite is always one of the front runners. But from time to time also on brown tones such as mocha is used.
The purchase of the wedding suit
The masters of creation tend to buy their clothes rather in the "passing". But as a husband willing to marry, you should take this behavior when buying your wedding suit. After all, the bride should be pleased at the sight of her future husband. Therefore go to a gentlemen's outfitter about three months before the wedding and get professional advice. In this period, any necessary changes are still easy to handle. As already mentioned above, it is advisable to take along your bride or possibly mother as a companion to choose. They are usually excellent consultants and the bride has probably already picked her wedding dress so suit and accessories can be adjusted accordingly. Of course there is also the possibility as a groom to buy the suit online, but this is usually discouraged, as it can not be tested in advance, whether the suit really has the right dimensions and sits properly.
Alternatives to buying
Just as the bride wears her dress, the groom can also borrow his suit for the big day. Especially for men who rarely wear a suit in everyday life or who want to walk in an exclusive tailcoat or cut to the altar, the suit rental is a worthwhile cause. However, the suit rental is not as widespread as the bridal gown rental. It is best to ask the resident gentleman's counterpart if he can lend suits or name another address.
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