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Lake Garda: Alone on the west coast

Surrounded by rocks - behind every curve of the serpentine-rich embankments of Lake Garda awaits a new spectacular view.
Photo: © Fotito - Fotolia.com
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  1. Italy
  2. A room with a view - and anything but lonely
  3. Info & Tips
  4. Best travel time
  5. Arrive well
  6. On site

Italy

Read, talk, eat, laze - only if I want it. That's best done alone. And in a place that you already know. So I had made it for my three-day break on Lake Garda , which should lead me this time to the quieter West Coast, after I had explored the sun-drenched east coast a year ago. The only thing I had planned before was the flight, rental car and a cheap Bed and Breakfast accommodation.

A room with a view - and anything but lonely

As I drive over the mountain coming from the north, the lake sparkles in the most beautiful turquoise. At the Bed and Breakfast "Le Brede" near Toscolano-Maderno, my hosts Anna and Mauro await me with their Bernese Mountain Dog Zingaro.

Your home ( www.lebrede.com ) is nestled against an olive grove next to a golf course, about two kilometers from the coast. It is wonderfully quiet here, the view from the spacious room fantastic - I do not care that Anna and Mauro do not speak English - and I do not speak Italian. After all, I understand her restaurant tip: The "La Sosta" in Via Cecina 79 offers genuine cuisine of the highest quality for a reasonable price. I feel a bit lonely at my table because I can not share my experiences with anyone.

Anna and Mauro are sitting on the terrace when I return. And then we spend happy hours, even though nobody understands each other's language. Where words are not enough, we paint and look for translations on the internet. After two hours of gesticulating and laughter I blissfully fall asleep.

Strengthened by Anna's loving and copious breakfast with home-baked I drive first north to the small town of Limone sul Garda, whose winding houses are glued terraced to the rock. Everything looks tiny, even the harbor basin, where fishing boats bob down. Day-trippers wander through the picturesque streets until early evening, whose front doors are adorned with ceramic citrons. Only in the late afternoon silence settles on the village. But there I sit again away from all the hustle and bustle on "Le Brede", Zingaro snores at my feet.

As in a fairy tale, I feel like visiting the Botanical Garden of the André Heller Foundation ( www.hellergarden.com ) in Gardone Riviera. On the enchanted grounds, I stroll over floor mosaics, between well over 2, 000 different plants and cheerful sculptures - a dream.

Then it's on the imperial promenade of Salò with its seductive shops. I resist, for the memory of my favorite destination on the east side brings me back. I take the car ferry from Toscolano-Maderno to Torri del Benaco and drive to Punta San Vigilio. The tavern on this small headland offers under a vine-covered pergola a breathtaking view over the broadening Lake Garda.

The food is expensive, but for a delicious Campari enough the holiday budget ( www.locanda-sanvigilio.it ).

Only on the last day - unfortunately - I discover Gargnano, a dreamy and quiet fishing village. I'm sitting near the harbor on the wooden terrace of a café at the Albergo Gargnano, below me, the waves hit the shore. At the table next to me a nice couple from Cologne, with whom I am immediately in conversation and arrange to meet for dinner.

Had I been traveling with two, I would not have experienced these spontaneous surprises - after all, nothing was planned. But there is a plan: In November, I drive back to the west coast for the olive harvest. Until then, Anna and Mauro learn English - and I Italian.

Info & Tips

While on the coastal road in the east of Lake Garda, a pretty place with pebbly beaches on the other rows, are the towns in the west a little more hidden - there is not so much bustle here. Every few kilometers there is a bathing bay.

Best travel time

On Lake Garda there are pleasant temperatures from April to October up to 20 degrees.

Arrive well

Flights to Munich or Innsbruck from about 170 euros with Lufthansa or Air Berlin. Continue with the car from 200 Euro / week, z. B. on www.autoeurope.de .

On site

Ferry connections with and without car (only English / Italian) can be found at www.navigazionelaghi.it

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