Recommended, 2024

Editor'S Choice

Amrum and us

Welcome to the Robinson Club. No, no, not that.

An Amrum typical dune landscape with the highest lighthouse on the Schleswig-Holstein West Coast
Photo: Tourism Agency Schleswig Holstein GmbH

North Sea in the off season! Because you have the island almost to yourself. And it is extremely cheap. About a very special feeling of happiness ...

It happens as we climb the last step. As the sand crunches on the wooden staircase under our feet one last time, the wind whirls my pony confused and Nina and I, finally on top of the viewing dune, look at us with a grin. That's where my heart makes a little jump. Because everything is just right at this moment: the sun, warm, but not sunburn-hot. The sea, wild and foamy. The view over to the lighthouse, entwined by majestic cloud mountains. And no one is far and wide apart from us. Perfect.

Rain jacket, wool hat, scarf: When we packed our bags two days ago, we had armed ourselves well. After all, we felt like daredevils since we knew we were going to Amrum - in the low season. Instead of running our seasonal bikini on the largest beach in the North Sea (yes, Amrum, the Kniepsand), we would stand in the parka, buttoned to the tip of the nose, against the North Sea wind. At best, put your little toe in the cold seawater. And then we warm up with a hot "Schietwetter" tea. Even so, relaxation can look like. "Closed for company holidays" - in the cult bar "Blue Mouse" we will not get a hot drink this afternoon. If days are getting shorter on Amrum, island life is also more leisurely. Part-time islanders retreat to the mainland, beach chairs come in the shed, supermarkets close before lunch. "Lucky, " says Nina. When we buy jam and bread for breakfast at Café Schult (Ual Saarepswai 9, Norddorf), she discovers something better there: Fries tart! In addition a "dead aunt" (north Frisian for hot chocolate with rum), and we never want to get up again from the plush-red upholstered benches.

And then do it. Too blue the sky. Too tempting the wide sandy beach. I pull my hood over my head, the wind whistles a little fresh as we trudge through the fine white. Occasionally other hoods meet us, then we are alone again. We fall into the sand in front of a beach castle built by an artist from flotsam. Above us dangle individual shoes, doll arms, a green plastic bucket. Nina is sure: we ended up in a fairy tale. When we pack everything up on the fourth day, our rain jackets are still hanging on the hook. One last crab roll in the "Butt'ze" (Inselstraße 34, Wittdün), then the ferry is already tooting. On board we notice: We have not hairstyle for days, only hair. No matter! Home we bring a few shells, two heads of beautiful pictures - and four flushed cheeks. From the sun. And sheer luck.

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